Our Weaving Process
A step-by-step guide through our weaving process
The Weaving Process
At Hainsworth, every cloth begins its journey with an uncompromising commitment to quality. Production started in 1783 and across eight generations of the Hainsworth family, weaving continues today in our Yorkshire mill.
Wool Store
Our production and weaving process starts with the selection of the best fibre, lamb’s wool, merino wool or cashmere. This is an area of expertise that has been passed down through generations of the family. We use only the best wool from Britain, Australia and New Zealand. Different climates result in different wool qualities; to ensure we are using the perfect wool for each product we ensure we purchase a variety of quality raw fleece by visiting sheep farms, auction houses and merchants all over the world.
Blending
Blending is where we combine precise recipes of raw wool to get the perfect mix of fibres for each product. During this process fibres are loosened and separated, dirt is removed, and an oil called Lanolin is added for lubrication – much like how we put conditioner on our hair after shampooing to make it less tangled. The freshly blended wool is then stored in our blending bins, ready for carding. We produce about 50 different blends of wool for use in our many different woollen products.
Carding
Newly blended fibres are loaded by hand onto the carding machine, which passes them through a series of rollers at different speeds to comb, clean and untangle them. This produces a continuous web of fibre. The machine controls and aligns the fibres as they pass through the rollers, finally separating into strips called slubbings. The slubbings are wound onto condenser bobbins in preparation for spinning. It takes between 3 and 6 days to card an average blend this way – the amount of time depends on the end product.
Spinning
During the spinning process, the slubbings produced in carding are converted into yarn by applying a specific degree of permanent twist. The revolutions of the spindle and the speed of yarn delivery determine the amount of twist in the yarn. On average, we produce 24,000 miles of yarn a week.
Warping
Warping refers to arranging yarn threads into long parallel lengths of equal tension onto a beam in preparation for weaving. During the warping process cones of yarn are placed onto a rack called a creel, then separated out into the correct order and wound onto a warping balloon. When the correct amount of yarn has been added the warp is transferred onto a warping beam ready for weaving. We complete 2-3 warps on an average day. The longest warp we produce is a Protectives warp measuring at 3960 metres.
Weaving
It is in our weaving shed that yarn starts to become fabric. Here we manufacture woven fabric by interlacing warp and weft yarns on our looms. The warp yarns run vertically in the loom and the weft is woven in and out horizontally. We have several different types of loom used to manufacture specific types of fabric. It takes approximately 2 hours to knot on and pull through a weave, and it can take up to 2 days to change a job in loom.
Picking & Mending
In our Picking and Mending department, every piece of woven cloth undergoes a meticulous inspection to identify and correct any imperfections. Skilled hands work to remove knots or faults, either by carefully picking and brushing them out or by mending them with needle and thread. This process also involves balancing the ends – an intricate skill requiring both precision and experience. By ensuring the ends are perfectly aligned, our team prevents distortions or tension imbalances in the cloth. If this step is not executed correctly, the fault will be magnified during the milling stage, potentially affecting the feel, finish, and overall quality of the final fabric.
Milling
Milling is an essential finishing process that brings fabric to the exact weight and thickness needed. Each piece starts with a production plan and arrives in its raw state – known as a greasy piece – with length and width calculations already set. It is first scoured – a washing cycle to remove oils – before being milled, where pressure and force shrink the fabric to the required dimensions. Throughout, the team checks and measures progress, making adjustments as needed. Their skill lies in reading how the fabric reacts and knowing when to push harder or ease off, ensuring every piece comes out exactly to specification.
Dyeing
Dyeing is where the rich shades for which Hainsworth is famous are applied to the fabric. We have a fully equipped dyehouse using winch, jet and beam machines, as well as other unique processes. The dyestuffs are fed from the mixing kitchen directly into the dye vessels. To achieve good dyeing results, the skilled team must carefully control the temperature, pH, amount of liquid in the machine, and dye cycle length. Once the dyeing cycle is complete, samples are taken from the pieces and checked against colour standards stored in our computer database, to ensure consistency of shade from batch to batch. For example, the scarlet cloth worn by the Royal Guards must be a consistent shade whether it was dyed 2 months or 2 years ago. The expertise of our dyeing team ensures that this is possible.
Tentering
Traditionally done in the open air over wooden frame, Tentering is the process of drying the fabric whilst ensuring it maintains its shape and no shrinkage. Did you know that the phrase “being kept on tenterhooks” originates from this process of drying and setting the fabric?
Finishing
Our finishing process is what makes Hainsworth cloth so unmistakable. A series of processes (either chemical or physical) are applied to woven and set fabrics to impart a unique desired effect. This is where the renowned Hainsworth drape, handle, face and sheen become apparent. Our specialised range of finishing equipment creates bespoke finishes for our fabrics. This equipment includes raising machines used to lift fibres to improve fabric handle, boiling and blowing machines used to set fabrics, padding machines used to apply chemical finishes, and brushing machines used to improve fibre alignment.
Printing
Hainsworth printed snooker and pool table cloths offer brand visibility in bars and pubs, corporate spaces, sports facilities, and private homes. Our printing process is unique to us – the print is transferred through a dischargeable dye, ensuring a smooth surface with no resistance to the ball. Our team are experts at transferring clean crisp designs onto leisure cloth, and we have created cloth using some of the most recognisable logos in the world.
Conversion
In Conversion, our finished fabrics are converted into blankets, throws, and other products by cutting to size, binding or whipping, adding labels and packaging. In an average year we use 90,000 metres of blanket binding, 20,000 blanket bags and 465,000 metres of sewing thread. Our Conversion team use a variety of techniques such as cutting, sewing, eyeleting and punching to produce finished products which match precise customer specifications.
